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PRODUCT: Cosmedicine Healthy Cleanse Foaming Cleanser & Toner in One

CLAIMS: “Quickly melts makeup including waterproof mascara, leaves skin clean, normalized—never tight…Zero sensitivity and zero adverse reaction…Clinical trials measured…94% reduction in oiliness, 85% reduction in sebum immediately after use.”

INGREDIENTS: Water/Eau, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Cyclomethicone, Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben.

TEST ON ANIMALS?: No [Source: Cosmedicine.com]

PRICE: $35 for 5 oz.; $10 for 1.7 oz.

Courtesy of Cosmedicine.com

Courtesy of Cosmedicine.com

I’ve always been intrigued with 2-in-1 products. So, no wonder Cosmedicine’s cleanser/toner combo caught my eye at Sephora. Instead of investing in the full-size bottle ($35), I snagged a travel-size bottle for $10, because I’m cheap like that.

When I took my purchase (that’s right, I restricted myself to only one item today!) to the cashier, she smiled and leaned toward me. This stuff is great, because it really does what it says, she said, confidingly. It really takes off ALL the makeup, even the waterproof eyeliner and RED lipstick. Since she was, uh, thoroughly made-up, including dark lipstick, I thought she must know what she was talking about.

The product is dual-phase, which means that it needs to be shaken well before use (I forgot to do this a couple of times and the product texture seemed oilier than when well-shaken). Application is unusual: You pump the cleansing into your damp hands, but apply it to a dry face. I think this step must be what helps it remove makeup so well. The cleanser lives up to the claim of removing regular eye makeup without stinging. (I did not have a chance to test it with waterproof mascara, which it also claims to remove.) It did not remove metallic liquid eyeline, though; I had to resort to a separate makeup remover.

The cleanser exits the pump as a light foam, but I did not notice much additional foaming on the face (probably because of the minimal amount of water involved before rinsing). The texture is light and slightly oily (which helps break down makeup) but rinses easily. My skin felt soft to the touch with no irritation from the cleanser.

Healthy Cleanse also claims that it “leaves skin clean, refreshed, normalized, never tight or dry.” My skin did feel soft, but also felt stretched if I smiled. Granted, my skin didn’t feel as tight as if I’d used a bar soap or a harsher cleanser, but I definitely felt dryness and tightness on my forehead and cheekbone area. Perhaps this is what they mean by “85% reduction in excess sebum immediately after use”?

PROS:

  • Excellent makeup removal
  • Little to no irritation
  • Light texture
  • Rinses easily
  • Travel size available; pump less prone to leaking than regular bottle cleanser

CONS:

  • Slightly drying
  • Expensive (The travel-size is actually cheaper, at $5.88/oz. versus the larger size’s $7/oz.)
  • Didn’t live up to all of its claims

VERDICT: I liked the ease of a makeup remover, cleanser and toner in one. Though it did not live up to all of its claims (I wish it was slightly less drying), I will continue to use the bottle that I purchased. I’m ambivalent about whether I would buy it again, especially at the price (similar pump-style drugstore cleanser such as Aveeno or Neutrogena are approximately $1/oz.).

If you want to try this product, and if you’re interested in other Cosmedicine products, consider Sephora’s Cosmedicine Starter Set, which includes the 1.7 oz Healthy Cleanse and four other Cosmedicine products for $24.

Well, it’s now officially October, so I have started planning my Halloween costume. As an adult, I have shunned the sexy cop/nurse/witch/girl scout costume-in-a-bag options and gone for the obscure, detailed, usually decidedly non-sexy costumes.

My past three costumes have been: No. 2 from ’60s British TV show The Prisoner, The Log Lady from ’90s TV show Twin Peaks and Roman goddess Pomona. OK, so maybe my choices are not always of-the-moment, but they’ve always provoked fun conversations. (Mostly in the vein of, “What are you supposed to be?”)

This year (again, a few years behind the times), I’m going to attempt one of my favorite literary villainesses, Queen Jadis, or the White Witch, from the Chronicles of Narnia.

Disney's interpretation of Jadis for The Lion, the Witch & the Wardrobe

Illus. of Jadis from paperback book

BBC's interpretation of Jadis

In The Lion, the Witch & the Wardrobe, C.S. Lewis describes Jadis as having extremely white skin with blood red lips. In The Magician’s Nephew, he says her skin is “white as salt.” I guess Disney wanted to go in a different direction with the makeup, instead giving Tilda Swinton a slightly glossy, silver-tinged eye shadow and a pale pink lip, and a natural (though pale) skin tone. I do like the dreadlock look and the costume created for the movie, both of which I plan to re-create in my costume.

Jadis looks more powerful with dark hair, though, and that’s how the illustrations in the book depict her, so I’m going to stick with my natural hair color. Sorry, Tilda. To create the makeup look, I’m going to start with the Ice FX Frostbite Makeup Kit, which I purchased locally for $4 (buy it online at partywiththis.com for $6.99). The kit includes white/blue/pink greasepaint, ice gel (a sparkly adhesive), ice powder (crystals about the size of table salt), ice crystals (about the size of rock salt) and snowflakes (iridescent flakes).

My makeup plan for “Her Imperial Majesty Jadis, Queen of Narnia, Chatelaine of Cair Paravel, Empress of the Lone Islands”:

1) Prescriptives Illuminating Potion in Translucent

2) White greasepaint (if this looks too odd, I might try simply a lighter foundation)

3) Silver and Gold glitter eyeshadow

4) Ice Powder and Crystals on browbone

5) Ice Powder and Silver glitter on cheeks

6) Cover Girl Queen lipstick in Black Current (if I do a blood-red lip, will I look too much like a geisha?)

7) Black mascara, if needed

UPDATE: I’ve finally started making the costume. Read about it at White Witch Costume Details.

If I had been at New York Fashion Week, I would’ve loved seeing the shows, lusting over the latest fashion and beauty items and mingling with the tall and beautiful. But what I missed most about not attending Fashion Week: the free stuff.

Early in September, I saw pics of the limited-edition YSL Manifesto tote bag on the blog Selectism. It was a giveaway in several global locations (including New York) on September 6, but unfortunately, none of those locations was Dallas (where I am). So my only recourse is Ebay where, not surprisingly, 36 of the FREE totes sold for $35-$127 since the end of Fashion Week.

It’s an interesting look at the relation of intrinsic value, branding and supply/demand. The bag itself has so little intrinsic value (an imprinted cotton tote costs about $2 to produce) that Yves St. Laurent was able to give it away for free. But the power of their brand name and the low supply, along with shoppers’ desire to have the “it” bag of the moment drives the price right through the roof. The same thing happened with Anya Hindmarch’s “I’m Not a Plastic Bag” bag; that limited-edition cotton tote sold for £5 in stores, and it still sells well on Ebay for $40-$360.

So, how much would I pay for a $2 tote that happens to have the YSL logo on it? $35? Maybe. Not $127.50, that’s for sure. For now, this item will have to stay on my wish list.

AP Photo/Phelan M. Ebenhack

AP Photo/Phelan M. Ebenhack

America continues to be obsessed with Sarah Palin, including her hair, makeup, clothes and accessories. Why are we so fascinated with Palin’s image? Maybe it’s because, as the L.A. Times says, “…she’s a relative unknown, style is a lot of what we know about Palin right now.” Or, possibly, we’re just excruciatingly shallow.

So here’s a look at the Sarah Palin beauty news you may have missed:

  • MAC artists suggested both natural and dramatic beauty looks for Cindy McCain, Michelle Obama and Palin. For Palin’s daytime/natural look, they suggest taupe eyeshadow with chocolate smudged in the corners (perhaps using the Spiced Chocolate shadow palette), lots of mascara, peachy blush and peachy-coral lips (maybe Dare You). For more drama, Palin should go for a glossy wine lip (we’d choose Desire, topped with Jampacked Lipglass) and a smokier eye. (Thanks to Beauty Snob.)
  • New York Post reports that Palin has a “secret team” of stylists who selected a $2,500 Valentino jacket for her VP nomination speech. Radar estimates that the styling/hair/makeup team for Palin’s big night cost $7,050 (not including clothes or accessories).
  • Escada is reportedly one of the candidate’s favorite labels, according to the Wall Street Journal, though she sometimes buys her designer clothes at a consignment shop called Out of the Closet.
  • Palin got her much-remarked-upon hairstyle at the Beehive Beauty Shop in Wasilla, Alaska, according to the New York Times. The shop owner says the stylists are all “really strong Christians” and that Palin gave her a red coffeepot as a wedding present. Palin originally visited the salon as mayor in 2000, when she needed a fix after a bad dye job. A haircut at Beehive costs $30.
  • Capitalizing on “lipstick” comments by both sides of the ticket, pitbullmom.com has launched a line of products including two lipstick shades: Pale N’ Pink and Republican Red. Each lipstick sells for $9.99.
  • For only $114, you can get a wig that wigsalon.com claims very closely approximates Palin’s hair—you’ll need your own bobby pins and teasing comb, of course. It’s a Raquel Welch shoulder-length shag in Glazed Hazelnut, Hazelnut Shadow or Chocolate Copper.
  • Is even Sarah Jessica Parker inspired by Palin’s updo? She showed up the Sex & the City DVD release in a style quite similar (at least from the front) to Palin’s.

See also: Sarah Palin, Lover of Comfy Shoes (Pics!)

PRODUCT: Dr. Bronner’s Organic Shikakai Conditioning Hair Rinse

CLAIMS: “Our organic conditioning rinse is nourishing and effective…Organic Shikakai powder comes from the seed pods of the small South Asian tree Acacia Concinna, and is widely used in India for soft shiny hair. Organic lemon juice, used traditionally in the west, rinses and tightens hair shafts for excellent manageability. Organic coconut, olive and hemp fatty acids moisturize for luxuriant hair.”

INGREDIENTS: Organic Acacia Concinna (Shikakai) Extract, Organic Citrus Limon (Lemon) Juice, Organic Coconut Acid*, Organic Olive Acid*, Organic Hemp Acid, Potassium Citrate (made with Organic Lemon Juice), Organic Glycerin, Organic Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Organic Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Tocopherol (Vit. E), (* Certified Fair Trade by IMO)

VEGAN/VEGETARIAN?: Vegan [Source Dr. Bronner’s FAQ]

CRUELTY-FREE?: Yes [Source: Leaping Bunny]

ECO-FRIENDLY?: Certified organic, some fair trade ingredients, post-consumer recycled bottle

PRICE: $9.99 for 8 oz.

I purchased this product as part of my no ‘poo experiment. Previously I was washing my hair with baking soda and rinsing with diluted apple cider vinegar.

The Dr. Bronner’s rinse is based on shikakai, which is derived from an Indian shrub and, according to Wikipedia, is a traditional Indian hair cleanser and may have anti-dandruff properties. Shikakai can be found in Indian products such as Hesh Shikakai Powder. The second ingredient is lemon juice, which is approximately as acidic as the apple cider vinegar I had been using before (pH of about 2.4, according to Internet sources). 

The rinse is brown and grainy, with a liquid consistency. Recommended use is dilution of 1 or 2 capsful in 1 cup of water. This sounded like a hassle to try to do in the shower every time I wanted to condition my hair, so I pre-mixed 2 cups of water with 2 capsful of rinse in an empty bottle. (The mix looks a lot like dirty dishwater. Oh, well, if we only used “pretty” beauty products, no one would get nightingale-dropping facials.) The scent is strong and lemony.

Over the past couple of months, I have used the rinse consistently as a conditioner, following a wash with Dr. Bronner’s liquid castile soap, as recommended. (Application of the rinse from a squeeze bottle is much easier than trying to pour from an open cup.) My hair is short, about collar length, and I used about 3/4 cup of mix per wash. Rinsing thoroughly with water is important because, just as with apple cider vinegar, an incomplete rinse may leave your hair with a waxy feeling.

The rinse had an instant detangling effect, making my hair feel sleek and thick. My hair was easy to style following this conditioning treatment; the detangling was as significant as with one of my favorite conditioners, Origins’ Knot Free. I noticed a lingering lemon scent on my hair which dissipated after a few minutes (or after application of styling products).

PROS:

  • Economical (unless you have very long hair, you will use on average 1 capful of conditioning rinse per wash)
  • Organic/fair trade ingredients
  • Cruelty-free
  • Excellent detangling
  • Possible anti-dandruff properties

CONS:

  • Strong lemon smell during wash (possibly a pro, depending on how much you like lemons)
  • Unusual procedure (dilution may be a hassle)
  • Requires thorough rinsing with water (possible residue after a quick rinse)
  • Lemon juice may irritate cuts or abrasions on scalp
  • Messy cap (unless you rinse the cap out after every use, product drips down the sides of the bottle)

VERDICT: After adjusting to unusual dilution/pouring method, I really like the way my hair feels both during and after use of Dr. Bronner’s Conditioning Hair Rinse. It’s easier to rinse and less waxy feeling than apple cider vinegar, but it has the same conditioning/detangling effect as my conventional conditioner. For no/low ‘pooers who are looking for an ACV alternative—or for any organic-beauty lovers— I recommend this product.

Though it’s been backordered for weeks, Sephora by OPI’s popular Metro Chic color is FINALLY back in stock today at sephora.com. If you’ve been waiting for this “dark smoke” color, snap it up now for $9/bottle.

Personally, I got tired of waiting and settled for OPI’s You Don’t Know Jacques, a similar smoky color with a hint of violet. As much as I do like the gray creme finish, I am now on the hunt for a shimmery charcoal gray nail polish.

So, if you have a frosted charcoal gray that you like, clue me in!

UPDATE: Now, an hour later, Metro Chic is “out of stock” again. Hope you got yours! It’s currently selling for $30+ a bottle on eBay.

UPDATE 9/26/08 9:14 a.m. CDT: Metro Chic is back again (I just ordered two bottles), but it may not be for long. So hustle, hustle, hustle: Metro Chic

UPDATE 9/27/08: …And gone again.

UPDATE 9/30/08 12:37 a.m. CDT: Got a “Back in Stock” e-mail at 12:19 a.m. By the time I started to post this, 17 minutes later, it’s out of stock again. Crazy.

UPDATE 10/10/08 10:41 a.m. CDT: Another “Back in Stock” e-mail at 12:12 a.m. And now, 10 hours later, it’s still in stock. Hurry, hurry!

UPDATE 10/14/08: It’s still in stock at sephora.com, and I actually saw it on the shelf at my local Sephora store. Is the Metro Chic madness over?

Nothing like a Sunday night in front of the TV…painting my toenails (MAC Illegal Purple) and my fingernails (OPI You Don’t Know Jacques) and pampering my face with a mask.

While I often resort to my old standby mask—Queen Helene Mint Julep—last time I was in the drugstore, I spied a new display with sheet masks from a Korean company called The Face Shop. They were 2 for $5, so I talked myself into a few.

I wish all of the masks shown on their Web site were available locally, but I have a feeling some of the more esoteric ones (Imperial Herbs, Cereal Black Rice) may be Asia-only (if any of you have seen the whole selection of masks near you, let me know!). My drugstore had most of the Vitamin masks, the Fruit masks and the Essential masks. So I selected the Vitamin B mask, the Essential Pearl mask, the Pomegranate mask (I’m a fool for anything pomegranate) and the Aloe mask.

PRODUCT: The Face Shop’s Vita B mask sheet

CLAIMS: Formulated with extracts of cucumber and broccoli. The packaging asserts that the mask “moisturizes, brightens and helps fight acne” (I have an ongoing struggle with moderate adult acne). It also says “Patented Phytolex Nanoliposome effectively delivers beneficial ingredients deep into the skin and helps protect tired, rough skin from environmental damage.”

INGREDIENTS: Water, glycerin, SD alcohol 40, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, polyglutamic acid, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, phaseolus radiatus extract, betula platyphylla japonica bark extract, rumex crispus root extract, cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract, brassica oleracea italica (broccoli) extract, niacinamide, lecithin, ceramide 3, caprylic/capric tryglyceride, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), sodium carbomer, fragrance, methylparaben, blue 1, disodium EDTA

PRICE: $2.99 (or 2/$5) at Walgreen’s drugstore

Odd that they tout the broccoli and cucumber extracts, when there are higher concentrations of mung bean, white birch, and curly dock extracts (though apparently these three extracts form the “Phytolex Nanolipsome” described on the package). Other ingredients that may help skin (most are emollients or help skin retain moisture) are hyaluronic acid (sodium hyaluronate), niacinamide, shea butter and ceramide 3. An ingredient that might be of concern is SD alcohol 40 (which can be drying and irritating).

The mask is packaged in a foil pouch and is a thin fabric infused with lotion. It’s recommended to leave the mask on for 15-20 minutes and then remove the mask and gently pat the residue into skin.

On my face, the mask felt cold and refreshing and a little bit tingly across my cheeks. The floral fragrance is strong and lingers after the mask is removed. The mask was more “creamy” than some sheet masks I’ve used.

The residue left behind by the mask was very moisturizing, but felt a little sticky to the touch. I haven’t noticed any immediate benefit other than moisturizing.

PROS

  • Inexpensive
  • Several recognized beneficial ingredients
  • Moisturizing

CONS

  • High alcohol conten
  • Strong fragrance
  • Sticky residue

VERDICT: While the mask felt refreshing, it wasn’t anything extraordinary. And the third ingredient, alcohol, may be drying, essentially working against some of the other moisturizing ingredients. But for the low price, it’s a nice pampering treatment. And I look forward to trying some of the other masks, which have alcohol placed much lower on the ingredient list, where it should be less irritating.

An interesting article (but a fast read) in The New York Times this morning highlighted the role of nail techs—crawling on the floor, stepped on, with hands that smell like feet—behind the scenes at Fashion Week.

Photo courtesy of nytimes.com

Photo courtesy of nytimes.com

Fascinating is the idea that nail designers spend days mixing custom nail lacquers for designers (for instance, Twinkle‘s designer Wenlan Chia requested a polish based on a “Pantone color called Deauville Mauve”) or designing intricate, textured faux nails.

Natasha Singer, a reporter who was “embedded” with Creative Nail Design (she assures us that she wasn’t allowed to use any sharp tools), says that nails have become an important part of drawing the eye toward expensive shoes and handbags.

Read Singer’s saga at I’m Down Here, Up to My Eyes in Cuticles.

New York magazine’s blog made a snarky crack earlier this week about an Aldo retailer who was promoting their shoes as “seen on the runway at New York Fashion Week.” The implication was, dahling, “cheap” shoes are for the unwashed masses and have nothing to do with fashion.

I guess Payless didn’t get the message, since they featured their shoes in three shows at Fashion Week, by designers Lela Rose, Abaete and Alice + Olivia. While these designers’ lines aren’t new at Payless, they certainly feature some cute shoes for not a lot of dough. Take that, New York.

The Spring ’09 collections won’t hit shelves until February, but you can read about the designers and take a look at current collections at PaylessOnTheRunway.com. Or catch a peek in the video below, featuring Gossip Girl stylist Eric Daman. [UPDATE: Embedded video stopped working, so I took it down. View the video here.]

Thanks to Fashion Indie for the video.

You cruise the cosmetics aisle on every visit to the drugstore or superstore, just to check out the new products, right? But it’s not just the cosmetics aisle that offers a bounty of beauty buys. Check out these “off-label” uses of familiar products.

1) Monistat Soothing Care Chafing Relief Powder-Gel ($7.81): This gel works nicely to prevent chafing (thighs in summer, need I say more?) and blisters. But the active ingredient, dimethicone, is a silicone similar to the cyclomethicone in Smashbox’s Photo Finish Primer ($36). Furthermore, Makeup For Ever’s HD Microperfecting Primer ($32) is dimethicone-based. If you’re looking for a cheaper primer, this Monistat gel is worth a look.

Chafing Gel can double as a foundation primer.

Chafing Gel can double as a foundation primer.

2) Aspirin ($2.19 for 100 tablets): No one I know uses aspirin as a pain reliever, but some may have a big bottle in the beauty arsenal. Aspirin is an acetyl derivative of salicylic acid, which you may recognize as a common BHA exfoliant and acne medication. A paste of aspirin can be used as a mask or a blemish spot treatment, or you can mix up a batch of aspirin toner.

3) Aloe vera gel ($3.69 for 6 oz.): Beach babes know to toss some aloe vera gel in their bag for after-sun soothing. Post-skincare, rub a dollop through your hair—it makes a great, light hair gel. In a pinch, it can also triple as shaving gel.

4) Milk of Magnesia ($6.49 for 12 oz.): The magnesium hydroxide in milk of magnesia acts as a laxative when taken internally. But when smoothed on your face as on a mask, or even as a foundation primer, the same ingredient controls oil.

5) Panty liners ($3.69 for 60): You know a well-timed pantyliner has saved your clothes and lingerie more than once. Slightly trimmed down, panty liners can also act as underarm shields, absorbing sweat and protecting your clothes from deodorant stains.

6) Cornstarch (approx. $2 for 12 oz. at amazon.com): If you cook much, you probably have a can of this in your kitchen cabinet for thickening gravies and sauces. Cornstarch, or zea mays, is a key ingredient in dry shampoos such as Bumble & Bumble Hair Powder ($19). A tiny bit of cornstarch dusted on your roots with a large makeup brush absorbs excess oil. (You can also try talc-free baby powder, which is cornstarch-based, but usually contains fragrance.)

7) Microfiber cloths ($8 for 6 at autozone.com): Aquis charges nearly $8 for a single microfiber washcloth, but you can usually find a value pack of microfiber cloths (intended for detailing cars) in the auto section of  discount stores and supermarkets. These work well for gentle face and body exfoliation, and with a pack of 6, you can use a new one almost every day (as you should to prevent bacterial growth on your washcloth).

8) Lansinoh Lanolin for Breastfeeding Mothers ($9.49): Pure lanolin is great at soothing sore nipples, and is a rich emollient for bleeding, chapped lips.

Prices are from drugstore.com, except where noted.